I'm in Chicago. Bored. But I have a hotel near a nice restaurant with an above average bar. So I sit myself down and ask my usual request: "Make me your best Manhattan." By the way, I'm at Morton's Steak House, downtown. I've already had dinner so I just want drinks. As usual, they ask me what bourbon or rye I want. That's not a bad ask. I should have an opinion, and they do have options. So I say "Bulleit Rye," and ask what vermouth they have on hand. They say Antica Formula, one of my favorites. Please proceed.
What I asked for is admittedly not that much different than what I should be getting any any average bar. What I ended up with is an exceptionally balanced blend of rye, vermouth and bitters. And it occurs to me: the quality of the result is only part the choice of the ingredients, but often more importantly their balance. The folks at Morton's know how to balance the simple ingredients to deliver a delectable result. The classic Manhattan follows a 2-1-2 formula: 2 oz of bourbon or rye, with 1 oz of sweet vermouth, and 2 dashes of bitters. Simple. And because of that their balance means everything.
A bad bartender will err on one ingredient or the other, either because they aren't careful or because they think they need to compensate for one flavor over another. A good bartender understands the qualities each brings: the headiness of bourbon or rye, the sweetness of vermouth, and the bitterness of, well, bitters. It matters less what quality of ingredients you choose as much as what the balance of each has with the other. This, in my estimation, is the measurement of a good bartender, and thus a good bar.
I've seen, me included, the propensity to provide something special by delivering something more than is intended. A truly great cocktail involves knowing when to hold back in order to deliver more. My hats off to the Morton's team. I encourage you to visit them, more than just for a good steak.
Comments